Crank timing waaaay out?

Hey guys, Timing marks on the crank pulley; when looking at belts running with strobe light, is the right-most mark the -5* timing mark or the +20* timing mark.

I'm asking because I just checked the timing on my green daily POS. the strobe shows the right side mark (closest one to my needle) to be almost 25 degrees to the left of the needle.

Seriously wtf is going on here, this is a second hand car from adelaide 4 years ago bought through auctions and the only thing I can think of that I haven't checked is that the cam sprockets are set back 10* as well as probably having sharper cams???

More investigation is needed but what the hell, is my micra seriously running -25* timing on the crank???

left to right is 5 atdc then the yellow tdc, then 5 btdc etc pierce
but you need to lock it in base timing idle mode, or else use a diag connector and ecutalk software

ahh of course, thanks frank. something about removing the tps plug or setting fault test mode in fuse relay if i recall.

Forgot about that :D guess I better read the bloody haynes manual tomorrow, instead of just throwing the strobe gun on for 2 minutes haha.

Cheers.

I'll update tomorrow.

yeh, disconnect the tps and blip the throttle i think mate, but i dont think that is 100% tho (depends on a correctly set idle control valve i believe)
i prefer to run the ecutalk screen on the lappy and compare the data with the strobe personally, ie watch them running both together at idle
here,s the free software running
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JdfYbABZvmA

Sorry for the Spam,but what is the name of this software?

ecutalk mate, there are others too :)
http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/tost-the-official-spam-thread.53370/page-63#post-651217

well, the crank timing is fine now, used the haynes manual.
Set my non tps idle to 600, tps plugged in is 700 (without air on).

Kind of high but guess what, my jerky acceleration is also becoming stalling idle :D :D :D

The plugs WERE LEAN (so adjusted plastic idle screw - does this influence a/f ratio?), leads are good, dizy-cap is fine, compression is fine, fault check is fine.

Couldn't find a shop with an OBD1 scanner. Will organise soon.



I'm considering just buying a brand new throttle body off ebay as this one is a second hand replacement and probs has over 200k on it. I reckon it's on the way out.

the plugs usually look lean anyway pierce, and no the idle screw just bypasses the throttleplate (and the maf still reads the same airflow values)
that £17 obd1 connector that i linked has served me well :) and it will diagnose any t/b fault before you fork out for a new one
and the CG ecu uses timing changes to stabilise the idle if the i/c/v is poorly set