Aussie n14 GA16de into 95 K11

got a n14 in the yard, a little spare time so here goes

motor

my 2nd favourite micra "TestPig"

So once you get yours sorted are you doing mine.:)

removed power steering pump
removed air con pump
cut air con bracket back just leaving enough for the alternator

removed waterpump and crank pulley as they are supposed to foul the chassis rail

the micra crossmember is fitted and as you can see the front buffer rod is out of alignment

Did you get a whole pulsar or just the motor?

I like where this is going..

lookin good rudy :)
there is a fair amount of sideways give in the shafts if you want to shift the mounts (ie, remove the rubber and rotate/refit) and my front mount was binned years ago eh

got whole pulsar given to me a while back Dean,

rear mount I used the original k11 bracket, it's easy just needs a spacer or some washers on the top bolt

front buffer rod lower bracket ground off crossmember, reversed and welded back in better position, trying to keep room here which is why its reversed as I'm not sure what radiator I will be using

n14 uses same buffer rod but upside down, seeing as you need to use the k11 lower bracket one end will need washers or spacers to center it (I'm only keeping it her because it will need to passed by an engineer Frank)

very excited to see this rudy.

Hey Rudy,
Just out of interest what does the GA16DE weigh compared to the CG13DE?
Previous info I've seen seems to say they are heavy but doesn't say how heavy or give much info on what accessories it was weighed with... some people seem to consider a couple of kgs a vastly heavier engine...

So it'd be nice to get a comparison more directly, they are a cast iron block, the gearbox is the 31A right? (the non micra one but it will fit?)

Also the updated QG16DE (Alloy block I think?), is that likely to fit the 31A gearbox?

Ok, first up I'll explain in more detail what I hope to accomplish, This car is a rusted out wreck, It is my "testpig" for this swap into my other car, just to see if I can fit it and make it run, the reason for this engine is its size, availability, similar wiring and dirt cheap rebuild kits from the states, it will weigh more which is why I've stopped and started thinking a bit harder about this transplant

The crossmember is probably going in the bin, I don't like the idea of using the micra mount at the back(not even nismo). I wanna use the bigger pulsar one

My new idea is to start at the engine side mount remove the micra mount tower(the body part of the engine mount) and replace with similar pulsar one(wider and higher and may need the hole fudged to the outside)

The idea is to move the gearbox over 20-25mm and replace the micra longer driveshaft with a 20-25mm longer again n13 shaft. The idea is to
-put the drivers side mount to be installed directly above the chassis rail where it belongs(a lot less customizing)
-use a heavier rear mount
-allow the pulleys to be replaced and availability of power steering and air conditioning restored
-no electric waterpump and controller to purchase/install
-eliminate the chance of engine knocking on chassis rail which some uk boys with this transplant talk about

down side to this is the need to make one custom drive shaft to suit n13 31A or 31V which is probably the gearbox I'll be using, if room became a issue the micra box could be used

the other downside is abit of modifying to crossmember and mounting points on the vehicle

what do you boys reckon?

edit, and what would be the advantages or disadvantages of replacing the front buffer rod with a normal mount?

Pretty sure that is what they have in Aus, but had the 70series in Eur, which is probably another motor with the same bolt pattern as micra

edit.... and that picture above is with the 30A connected

these are glens pic,s eh rudy, and the QG has a cast iron block too :)

this guy,s n16 QG18 had an RS5F30 g/box originally eh !
http://www.then16files.com/

This is the car tonight after some work this arvo, the gearbox is over 35mm to the passenger side using the original n14 engine side mount and a n13 drive shaft

wrong picture above but you can see the clearance I have now, 17mm at the the waterpump pulley boltheads, triple pulley below and I can have both air and p/steer afterwards

n13 driveshaft fitted

can any one tell me how to remove the outer(hub end) c/v from a k11 drive shaft?, thank you

just brute force rudy

I've gotten a mini one off by holding the drive shaft by the inside end then smacking the back face of the Cv joint with a lump of 4x2 which worked well (it just drops off, the Haynes suggested doing it that way).

N14 pulsar one came apart, micra one with a grinder, just for measurements, not happy with n13 cv shaft, n16 maybe a bit longer but with micra splines, gonna go down to driveshaft shop soon to measure

for the other side Ken at Cobra Craft Engineering Sydney
Welded and sleeved $250, normally for mocking up, but for 100-120hp that I quoted him he reckoned it would be sufficient
Custom new machined cv shaft(no cv's, shaft only) $650

I would only be doing one shaft hopefully, now to explore gearbox options

if it was me, i would portopower the chassis apart slightly rudy, here,s how it worked out on my red car :)
you get an extra 10mm between the 2 chassis mounts, and an extra 25mm of clearance around the pulleys (and no shaft issues)
you can push it so that you end up with a subtle curve no probs, that is very hard to detect (engineer friendly ;) )

pic

pic

http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/ga16-swap-info-pool.57739/

Has lots of good info if you haven't found it...

It says the Ga16de weighs 110kgs including the flywheel which kind of implies it doesn't have a gearbox. But they say the CG13DE weighs 80kgs again including fw but I always thought that included the gearbox???
This site:
http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=CG_engine

Says the CG weighs 57kgs long block without a fw and 80kgs all up, which is it? I've seen a photo of Frank lifting a long block so 57 seems reasonable? (or frank's buff...)
I should weigh mine when I get back to do some more on it.

The other thing I was thinking was it mentions it's much the same in terms of strength which gearbox you use.

If correct this could solve a lot of hassles if you are able to keep the gearbox in the same position.

gonna weigh these up specially for you fuzzy, both with flywheels and a full belly of oil, I reckon aussie induction system will probably be heavier and a lot more importantly if you wanna stick it in a mini (or a micra) its a lot bulkier than the euro system.
Gearbox wise the 31 gears and diff are wider more beefy in the n14-n15, tell you soon about n13.

found a n13 lsd today at the wreckers and looks like the gearbox mount is gonna end up near pefect for my application(I'll grab a non-lsd one as well if different)

also found another K11 slx wreck there, nothing good but it did have a towbar which is now mine

That'd be awesome Rudy, it's not to go into a mini but rather a Morris 1100 I'm thinking about (it might fit in clubman mini though).
I'd probably have to make a new inlet anyway I'd think...
Gearbox wise I thought it might help buy some weight and space.
The 1100 is about the same weight as the micra so may look to use the micra suspension in it... But all this is a long way off, I've gotta get the mini finished first.

We got some shafts out of an older pulsar n12 I think? auto box which might help avoid custom shafts? They fit the 30 box but use smaller outer Cvs. I can get some measurements next time I'm up.

Not much to report so far, due to stepson crashing his commodore and us rebuilding him another + the rain keeps flooding my carport out, I have just been trying to find the right gearbox and hunting a few parts.

I got a n13 radiator and the air con one + a few various engine mounts, elec plugs, and a k11 towbar from my wreckers for haha $80, the rad looks near new

the drivers mount on the car has been removed widened and rewelded for the fatter rubber mount, and I still have to mod the engine side of this mount to fine tune the height and gap to the rail, I just know Frank or someone here knows how to remove and refit the rubbers "ghetto style" without destroying the old and pressing new rubbers.

Also Frank, I can get the euro/jdm manifold from NZ quickly and cheaply so all good on that front. Thanks for being willing to help otherwise

Lastly and most importantly IS what I'm planning possible, using N14 ecu, keeping variable cam but using this type of throttle body and manifold with custom n14 loom? I will try to wire up and run it firstly(or try too) as soon as I can using the aussie manifold and t/b, I have cut the firewall on testpig but this will not be an option on my other car

i bashed my rubbers out with a socket and 2 1/2" pipe rudy :)

FWIW here,s the extra 20mm of width you get from spreading the chassis rails apart rudy :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PES0hF78hGY&feature=youtu.be