bearings

I went to Nissan today to price bearings. Big ends and mains will cost me $1000+ at trade prices.

Just thought I'd let people know.

Okay...

That's ridiculous!

I need a full set and that is a shiiiet load of money. Pretty sure that Dylan from Maikoworks got back to me on some thread that it would cost around $600, though could be wrong :/

Anybody else had the big ends and mains quoted?

EDIT: quick question. If my original bearings look fine and the crank didn't have any scratches on it (no. 1 had a very light scratch, buffed out now); can I use them again reliably?

makes a GA16 with electric water pump conversion shine in a different light

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1//1?icep_ff3=2&toolid=10001&campid=5337873294&icep_item=280594346370

Big ends were something crazy like $150+ they come as the pair.

Mains were $15 or 18 a half and are graded by size (no surprise there). My Nissan man tells me that you can have 2 or even 3 sizes along the crank.. from the factory. So the engine needs to be opened to find out the required sizes.

After he told me the cost of one I stopped paying full attention, I was in shock I think. For interest I might go back and get the exact prices soon.

This is off nissan4u.com

It shows how to choose the right bearings and your guy is right, there are sizes STD 0 through 6.

I'm having trouble viewing my punches/markings after the engine was cleaned and machined plus it's late and I'm tired. I'll have a better look tomorrow and once I figure it out I'll post about it here.

FYI,

If you haven't pulled apart your block yet, as soon as you remove your pistons and rods, make sure you put your bearings right back on them, and keep them in order, then draw a diagram labeling which ones go where, and what size they are. They all have STD # (1-6) pressed into them. They may be dirty and hard to read though ;)

if you have the part numbers and dont mind a bit of a wait try http://amayama.com/

genuine parts from the us/middle east and half the price of nissan aus and sometimes cheaper.

those numbers on the block are pretty irrelevant on a 20yr old engine tbh, there is only .3 thou" difference in scale
plastigauge will assess the wear/clearance, but it wont acount for the inevitable ovality tho.
i always fit little squares of foil (1 thou" thickness) onto the journals and assemble the parts, then torque the bolts down to check the clearance