My new build thread!

So as most of you know I crashed my my past build,

So here is to a new start

I bought a 95 4 door slx ruff motor and ruff exterior.

Plan is to swap the motor out of my old one with the ga15 injectors and throttle body.

Already swapped my sway bars and adjustable panhard over

Once I pass blue slip ill be putting my coilovers back under and slamming it

Then plans are as follows

-diamond racing "smoothies" 15x7 -38 all round
-bolt on flares
-rigging up a front splitter from a vw polo
-home job respray (same colour)
-super s lip hatch spoiler

AND, my plan with the old was to go in the turbo direction. I'm kind of steering away from the direction now as it seems to be what everyone is doing. So my new idea is to build an sr24ve. I'm not quite sure how difficult it's going to be but it should be quite the challenge!


Pictures and more info to come!

Any thoughts or ideas?! Feel free to post

Cheers, James.

got a complete sr16ve + lsd gbox + inner shafts if ur interested mate

what's a sr24ve out of

You wont need bolt on flares with those widths/offsets. That sr16ve would be a good thing in a k11!

my 13x7 +11 poke on the front. add another 49mm you're gona need bolt ons. you could fit it with stretched rubber and a guard flare though...

Sr24ve is a sr20 vvti head, with an xtrail 2.4 bottom end. And sr16 are the same size as an sr20 so I don't see the logic there? I could be wrong! And as for tyres ill be going 165/45/15. Will be running a lot of camber on the front. I had 15x7 +25 were my old rims and they poked about 5mm with stretch and flared

A sr24ve is a sr20ve with the bottom end bored out to a 2.4 litre

So a SR24ve will fit a K11v

Very very interesting...

You can only stroke sr20 out to 2.2 as far as in aware. From my knowledge its an xtrail bottom end.

Hi the xtrail bottom end can't fit sr20 head and there is 2.4litre sr20ve's there 1 that does mid 10 1/4 miles times thanks

You need major mods to make it fit but what a weapon it will be

X trail GT in Japan came with a SR20VET - the most potent SR available.

Get a stroker kit into it to bring it to 2.2 litres MAX taking reliability and everything else into account, and you'll have a 500 horsepower car that weighs under 900KG.

Winner.

the x-trail engine is a sr20vet is it not? sr16ve and sr20ve (and sr20de) are the same block/bore, just with different stroke..sr20ve uses an 8 counterweight crank whereas the sr16 uses a 4 counterweight crank (with no crank girdle, etc)..
bronald got in b4 me, but cheers for confirming my point mate..
VE head will bolt onto DE bottom end, but you will need to use VE pistons for valve clearance...have done plenty of research on this subject for my sr16/20VE+T build..

mazworx has done the work for you:
http://www.mazworx.com/product/engine/nissan/nissan-sr20detsr20ve/complete-longblocks/all-motor-ve/mazworx-24l-na-longblock-ve
..shame it's RWD DET setup

Also have to tap the block to run oil lines for a solenoid plus a few other things if you wanna go VE head on DE bottom end..

Thats not a det setup, it a fwd n/a setup

greddy oil pan = sr20det

That mazworx engine in the link is a fwd n/a motor

Passed blue slip! Finally back on the road. Now for a slam party

keen for slam party.

Slam party went down tonight, picked up some temporary new shoes, te37 replicas 16x7 with semi slicks. Couldn't go as low as I wanted too because of the massive wheels. Not really a fan of the 16"! I must admit I'm loving the semi slicks tho!

The motor is very tired and as soon as it gets put under load it has a massive flat spot. Instead of mucking around with it I'm just going to drop my old motor in next weekend.

The brakes need some attention, rear brake cylinders are leaking and the standard front brakes are useless. Will be putting my n14 brakes up front soon and giving the rear brakes an overhaul.

Is this actually classed as a build thread if there are no pictures?

I don't know, you tell me.

Pictures are coming soon when I get Internet back on the computer. Pictures won't upload off the phone.