FLASH CODES

Hi There

Have A Nissan Micra 1999 1.0 LITRE With A Flash Code Of 145 From The Dash Board Light Not Obdii Data Link Connector

Cannot Find What This Fault Code Means ??
Does Anybody Know ????
Its 14 Long Flashes And Then 5 Quick Flashes
When The Ecu Is Put Into Mode 2

do you have the obd11 plug or the old nissan style plug?
how are u accessing the codes??
there arent any codes that are 145
they are only
11
12
13
21
28
34
41
43
55

other wise they are obd codes which u need a scantool to access.

i can tell you how to aceess them properly if you have the old style nissan plug

THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY
I am familar with the code you have said
this is why I am confused
I do also have a 16 pin scan tool

but I have two micras and the other one is fine
it reads code 55
which is all ok in the haines workshop manual

Its the 14 pin grey type
by the fuse box
I do access them by the book
which is link 2 pins for 2 secs while the ignition is on then break the link this puts it in retrieval mode
have done this 5 times at least and still get 14 long flashes then 5 short flashes and then wait a while it repeats it self ??

i cant remember for sure but i thought mode 2 was emissions diagnostics and mode 1 was for ecu errors?

there is a LED in a little sight glass on the computer itself..
that sometimes flashes the code according to the info i have

what pins to u jump together to retrieve the codes? i have a 95 lx and been looking for this info

hi every body

having thought about this

I know what obdII codes look like which are generic = eg. P0300

but
what does obd code look like ???

does any body know

you cant retreive OBDII codes the same way... you need a scan tool to retreive them.

MR MICRA its the top too pins to the right hand side of the plug
this is how it is done.... that makes it pins 6 and pins 7 on the top row

* switch ignition on
* bridge data link connector terminal IGN and CHK (its the two top left ones accordin to my info)
* wait 2 seconds
*disconnect bridge wire
* codes will be displayed in either the check engine light or a LED situated in a small hole in the ECU itself.

long flashes indicate tens of the trouble code, short flashes indicates the units

IE __ _ _ equals 12

codes

11 - camshaft position sensor/crankshaft position sensor intermittent signal

12 - mass air flow sensor-circuit malfunction

13 - engine coolant sensor circuit malfuntion

21 - ignition signal-circuit malfunction

28 - engine coolant blower motor malfunction

34 - knock sensor

41 - intake air temp. circuit malfunction

43 - throttle position sensor

55 - no fault found

Australian delivered K11 do not have a check engine lamp in the dashboard. They have a Nissan CONSULT plug too, not OBD compliant.

To get to the ECU (thats if it has the sight glass with the LED behind it - i'm 99.9% certain my series 2 Bosch ECU does not have one) you'll need to remove the plastic scuff pieces around the centre console.

G'day Guys !

In case any of you are still reading this thread...

The orange engine "check" (engine management) light lit up (constant illumination) on the dashboard of my 1996 UK-model Micra 1.3 GX a few days ago at the same time as the engine appeared to misfire (but did not stall). The light has been on, as soon as the ignition key is turned and whilst driving, ever since. There have been no additional symptoms since this incident but I had, in recent months, already noticed some mild engine hesitation during acceleration, especially in 4th gear, and this still persists.

I'd like to check the error code. In my car there is a 14-pin grey plastic socket under the fuses in the fusebox below and to the right of the steering wheel. However it only appears to use (i.e. have contacts in) pins 6 and 7 on the top row and pins 1, 2, 6 and 7 on the bottom row (counting left to right in each case). Therefore, following jay85's kind advice to connect pins 1 and 2 on the top row does not work in my case.

Guys, is my socket installed upside down (although the code "A-2" moulded on the grey plastic is the right way up) ? Maybe they put the socket in the other way up Down Under !!! Would it therefore do any harm to try connecting pins 6 and 7 on the bottom row ?

Otherwise, does anyone know which pins I should be connecting together to retrieve my error codes ?

Will any old piece of wire do the job of making the connection betwen the pins ?

Is the procedure for retrieving the error code the same, in all other respects, as that given above by jay85 ?

Will the engine management light return back to how it is now after checking the code or (if my car's fault was a one-off or intermittent) how can I clear the error condition entirely so as to turn off the engine management light ?

Can anyone hazard a guess as to what my car's problem actually might be ? Faulty lambda (oxygen) sensor ? Throttle body need soldering ? Will it cause any damage if I keep on driving my car with the orange light constantly on (but not flashing )?

Cheers guys, sorry this is so long but I look forward to your advice !

Aidan (YNWA !)

hey it is pins 6 and 7 in the top row that you have to connect.... sorry about that mistake.. i just use a small split pin when i do it but you can also use just a bit of cable....
let me know what code you pull out and i will see what info i can find out about it and what things may cause it

Hi,

Thanks for this. I tried jumping pins 6 and 7 on the top row together for two seconds with the ignition on (firstly without, and then with the engine running) but the orange "check" engine (management) light remained constantly illuminated, i.e. did not switch into error code reporting mode. Maybe this light (in the instrument panel on my UK model) does not report the code and perhaps I should instead have been checking the LED on the engine management computer ? (that's if it has one - I'm not sure as I didn't take the plastic panels off to look at the computer which, I believe, is bolted behind the dashboard between the two footwells - is this right ?)

I therefore tried again from the start (key out), but this time jumping pins 6 and 7 on the bottom row together, on the off-chance that this was what was actually required ! The result was again the same, i.e. the orange light stayed lit constantly - once again regardless of whether or not I had turned the key to the position in which the engine is running or just to the position immediately before this.

Then, out of desperation !, since neither of these approaches seemed to be working, I turned on the engine and revved it as hard as I dared for a few seconds in neutral. Once again, this appeared to have had no effect since the light obstinately remained on again when I drove off on a short errand a few minutes later....

However, after only a few yards of driving, I noticed that the orange light had gone out ! It did, pessimistically, cross my mind that maybe I'd inadvertently fried something by connecting the wrong pair of pins which had put the light out but, no, the "check" light is now operating completely normally, i.e. comes on when I turn the key but goes off as soon as I start the engine.

Therefore, as far as I can tell, the fault has cleared but I don't know what put the light out - whether it was connecting pins 6 and 7 (top), connecting pins 6 and 7 (bottom) or revving the bollocks off the engine - but, whatever it was, it seems (strangely ?) that the car needed to be driven a few yards to clear the fault rather than just to have had the engine running. Would any of these approaches actually be expected to extinguish the light ?

I don't know if the light will come on again - maybe the fault is intermittent (even during the past few days when I drove with the light illuminated, my fuel consumption was still the same as normal) - I will let you know if it does come back on again - if you can bear another epic screed !

Meanwhile, many thanks for your advice.

Cheers,

Aidan (YNWA !)

what you done, byt the sound of it and from reading it, is pretty much the delete sequence to delete the code... lol
see how it goes.... its hard to explain how to do it unless the person is really there watching... good luck mate

Just to follow up... It wasn't so easy as I thought. The problem did come back a week or so later. The orange light came back on but this time the engine appeared to switch into running in some kind of "safe mode" (and I noticed that the radiator cooling fan would kick in after less than a minute after even a cold start). By "safe mode", I mean that as soon as the engine got warm the car was limited to driving at low revs - a bit disconcerting as, even in 5th gear, I could only drive at a maximum of 40-45 mph (on level ground). I think that these measures are the ECU's way of protecting the engine from what it "thought" was risk of overheating damage because I was eventually able to trace the problem to a faulty temperature sensor (i.e. the one which is screwed into the engine block and provides temperature readings to the ECU - the other sensor, next to it, which connects to the temperature gauge on the dashboard remained unaffected). I had the ECU's temperature sensor replaced and this problem is now fixed.

Aidan (YMWA !)

Incidentally, on my 1996 UK-model 1.3 GX Micra, I did also eventually discover how to retrieve the ECU error code: As mentioned previously, in my car there is a 14-pin grey plastic socket under the fuses in the fusebox below and to the right of the steering wheel. It only appears to use (i.e. have contacts in) pins 6 and 7 on the top row and pins 1, 2, 6 and 7 on the bottom row (counting left to right in each case). Jumping pins 1 and 2 together on the bottom row switches the system into error code retrieval mode with long flashes of the orange engine management light on the dashboard (for tens) and short flashes for units. Jumping the pins together again reverts to normal mode. I gather that this is different to the Aussie system.

Cheers,

Aidan. (Liverpool top of the Prem !)